Grapevine Pruning 2013

A couple weekends ago, when we had a couple of days of faux spring, so I decided to prune the grapevine along the garage.  Last year's growth was extremely vigorous so there was lots to remove.

I wrote a post on last year's pruning (here).  Last year I left 2 buds per spur in addition to the bud that pops out at the base of the spur (i.e. 3 buds per spur).  This resulted in tons of shoots and tons of grapes....but the grapes tended to range from small to average in size.  The shoots that grew from the basal buds, did produce grapes.

This year I was more aggressive with my pruning and left only 2 buds per spur including the basal bud.  We'll see if this make a difference in the size of the grapes.

This past winter was a tough one...long stretches of -20°C temperatures.  As a result, at least 60% of the wood on the pruned shoots was dead and could not be used for propagating.  Nonetheless, I was able to start the propagation of ~20 cuttings and also give a good number to Fred for root stock for his vineyard in Osgoode (see the blog link to the right).  Here is my post on propagating.  I was happy with the technique I followed last year....so I'll give it another shot.

Grapes Part 2 – Propagation

As I alluded in my first post about grapes, I propagated new shoots using fresh cuttings from this years pruning.  My best reference for the procedure was Fred from work; he has a lot of experience in propagated vines and is in the process of completing a vineyard of about 80 vines out in Osgoode.  But if you don`t have access to a Fred, the following is what I did to propagate my new vines.

While pruning the vines I pile the cuttings so that I can identify their bottoms (closest to the main branch) and tops (the tip of the cutting).  I trim each cuttings so that only three buds remain – making the top cut at an angle helps to identify the top.  I cut the bottom of the cutting very close or through the bottom bud.

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Callusing is Key

To ensure your cuttings will develop roots you have to callus bottom buds.  The callus will appear as a bright white, fine, granular growth rimming the cut you made.  Roots will spawn from this callus.

 

Once a number of cuttings were prepared, I soaked them in water overnight with the bottoms submerged.  The cuttings were then bundled, wrapped in wet newspaper or paper towel (but not dripping wet) and placed in a dark plastic bag.  Heat is required to speed up the callusing and root development – simply place the bag in a place that has a constant temperature >80°F.  I placed mine above the television as it gives off a lot of heat -- many website references mentioned the top of the refridgerator.  After 2 to 3 weeks, the bottom buds will begin to callus -- some will have already spawned roots.  Because I was impatient I did not wait for all the cuttings to spawn roots; I planted each cutting in a container with one (sometimes two) buds above the soil level being careful not to damage the buds or roots.

I used black pails (with holes drilled in the bottom for gentle bottom watering) and a mixture of potting and garden soil.  I placed about 6 cuttings in each pail.  As long as they are placed in a warm spot (south facing window), it didn't take long for them to sprout leaves.  I`ll plant these babies towards the end of May when all chance of frost is gone.

Mike